The Indian Singapore

Khajjiar is officially proclaimed the mini-Switzerland ofIndia. Khajjiar  is arguably one of the most picturesque places in India. The landscape is chocolate- box perfect.At an altitude of 6450 ft, this saucer shaped green meadow, ringed by Devadar Trees has a lake in the middle complete with floating island. The charm of this place is a large meadow land that would come at sight while moving towards Chamba town. It has a rare combination of three ecosystems: lake, pasture and forest, all in one place.

Khajjiar View

Khajjiar is a wonderland midway of Dalhousie and Chamba. Just a bus/taxi-drive away from Dalhousie through a bus/taxi-able road winding through some very narrow and steep roads and dense dark emaralds covers of green forests spanning pines and cedar, the magical paradise Khajjiar sets you free in a different world of peace and enjoyment, as if untouched, innocent in its charm, nascent in its feel, and you simply don’t want to leave. No wilderness in Himachal is as easily accessible and beautiful as Khajjiar.




Khajjiar Top View

The snow - line appears above its lush woods, and at the very centre of this divine glade, is a lake fed by countless streams that criss - cross the area. Glacier lake of Khajjiar has spongy earth owning to the week Vacha and is surrounded by tall Deodar trees and is fed by the streams from the Himalayas. Shaped like a saucer, this huge bowl of 7 emerald-turfed meadows, 1.6-km long and 0.9-km broad, lies embedded beneath a dense pine forest surrounded by high mountains, and fringed by gigantic deodars. 

Snow line on the top of Khajjiar

Along its fringes, amidst the thick forests above the woods and in the centre of the glade, is a small lake fed by streams that traverse the green carpet. The thick forests and ambience of the place can be best viewed near the majestic rivers of Chenab, Beas and Ravi. It is incredibly beautifully and justifiably famous for its magnificent splendor. One can sit for hours and hours together at the small hut-isle at the center of the lake, where you can reach with the help of a wooden bridgeway, and admire the lake as well as the lavish natural surroundings, breathing in the wet fragrance of a wind that flows through the pines and deodars. A camera can hardly capture the enticingly captivating & mesmerizingly thrilling experience that the eye of a visitor meets.

Famous Khajjiar Lake

Khajjiar in Winters

There are countless spots with nature beauty where a tourist can spend their time, and Khajji Naga shrine is one of them. A little away from the lake is the temple of Khajji Nag belonging to 12th century A.D. In the mandapa of the temple one can see the images of the Pandavas and the defeated Kaurvas hanging from the roof of the circumambulatory path. The sanctum of the temple has been beautifully carved from wood.

Khajji Naga shrine

Adding to the charms of Khajjiar, which also hugs a golden-domed Devi temple, is a golf course set in the midst of the idyllic surroundings. The golden spire of the Devi's abode beckons one to the fringe of the lake.

History: 
The history of khajjiar is linked to the rulers of chamba. The local Rajput rulers ruled chamba valley in the 6th century and made it their capital city. This region become the part of the Mughal Empire in the medieval period and later came under various Sikh kingdoms, finally, it was taken over by the British, and it became a part of the state of Himachal Pradesh when it came into being on April 15, 1948.

Reaching to Khajjiar: Closest airport from Khajjiar is Gaggal also known as Kangra. This airport is situated at good distance of 134 kms from Khajjiar hill station. Nearest railhead to this place is Chakki Bank. Experts identify this place as Pathankot too. The station is just 80 kms away from Khajjiar. Train from big city of India is connected to this hill station

Valley of Flowers: A pristine land of mythical serenity

Valley of Flowers also known in Hindu mythology as Nandan Kanan means “Garden of Indra in Paradise”. The Valley of Flowers is a glacial corridor, eight kilometres in length and two kilometres in width. Its floor slopes from almost 3,500 metres above sea level up to almost 4,000 metres. True to its name, the Valley is carpeted with wildflowers during the monsoon season. Known to the inhabitants as the Bhyundar valley, the Valley of Flowers is hidden from the scrutinizing eyes of the civilization. The valley was declared a National Park in year 1982.

Valley of Flowers

A pristine land of flowers

Valley of Flowers widely known for  its riot of enumerable flowers and colours was accidentally discovered by a group of mountaineers. Apart from flowers the valley is bestowed with alpine meadows, forests, and sparse but exotic Himalayan wild fauna. The valley portion of the Park runs in the east west direction along the banks of river Pushpawati.

Trekking Path of Valley of Flowers

The Valley of Flowers is also associate with the legendary story, which says that Hanuman picked Sanjeevani Buti (herb with healing power) from this region for treating the wounds of Lakshman, the brother of Lord Rama injured during the war with Ravana in Lanka. A temple ‘Lokpal’ dedicated to Lakshman exists near Hemkund Sahib. Hemkunt is known for magnificent Sikh shrine Hemkunt Sahib on the banks of Hemkunt Sarovar, and for which lakhs of tourists visit hear every tourist season. 

Scenic view of Valley of Flowers

The Valley of Flowers National Park starts from Ghangharia but the main valley starts after crossing the gorge and the stream originating from Nar Parvat, 3 km from Ghangharia. In front of the Valley stands the snow capped peak of Ratban Parvat and at the background is the Kunt Khal. Towards the left is Nar Parvat, which bisects the Badrinath valley from this valley, and to the right is thick Birch forest on the hill sides. Below the forest is the meadow. River Pushpavati flows through the valley and there are many waterfalls enhancing the beauty of the valley. The splendour and the dazzling beauty of the valley beckons tourists from all the corners of the world.

Valley of Flowers is a place of escape from the hustle-bustle of today’s city life. One would have to descend in winter to warmer and less snowy levels, but for nearly 4 months those in search of beauty and solitude can find peace in the Valley of Flowers. Of the many species which coexist in this unique ecosystem, the most popular among visitors are the Himalayan blue poppy native to the region, the uncommon varieties of primula and orchid which bloom during June, and the impatiens, potentillas, and campanulas which paint the valley pink, red, and purple during July and August. 

A stone path meanders among the flowers and across streams. The flowers grow so tall that leaving the path is difficult. Few visitors continue beyond the first one or two kilometres inside the Valley. They pause to photograph flowers, drink from a mountain spring, and scan the valley floor for a glimpse of a grave rumoured to be there among the flowers.

Reaching the Valley of Flowers
Air : The nearest airport is Jolly Grant, Dehradun, 319 km
Rail : The nearest railhead is at Rishikesh, 302 km.
Road : Off the Rishikesh-Badrinath road, 17 km from Govindghat. (25 km from Badrinath). From Govindghat the distance has to be trekked. Bus services are available to Govindghat. Porters are available at Govindghat and Ghangharia.

Roopkund: Glacial Lake of Skeleton

A good mystery is loved by everyone but for some, unraveling mystery is everything. Roopkund lake is one of the most beguile and enthralling exemplar of mysterious places getting unraveled. The Roopkund lake cuddles in the isolated wombs of the majestic Himalayas at a height of 5029 meters above sea level. This lake is also popularly known as Skeleton Lake. The lake is nestled in a valley with steep sides and no one can inhabit in this area, even passing through the area can prove fatal for normal human beings. Roopkund has an inscrutability and vagueness that has decepted multiple generations of fortune tellers. 

Roopkund - Glacial Lake

Roopkund lake is a mystery in itself. This frozen lake which glorifies the beauty of the Himalayas with a mystery is really hard to decipher. Apart from this there is a lot to this side of the story. The Roopkund lake has a lot of traditional myths intact in it and the Pandora's box could only be opened once you visit it.
For long months this shallow lake is frozen. It is beautiful but there is also some menacing feel in this nearly lifeless place. In the summer, as the Sun melts the ice around the lake, there opens dreadful sight - bones and skulls of people and horses lying around the lake.

Glacial Lake of Skeleton

Skeletons of Roopkund

It is not fully clear whether local people knew about these in earlier times or not - but first written reports appear in 1898. In 1942, a British forest guard in Roopkund, India made an alarming discovery. Some 16,000 feet above sea level, at the bottom of a small valley, was a frozen lake absolutely full of skeletons. That summer, the ice melting revealed even more skeletal remains, floating in the water and lying haphazardly around the lake's edges. Something horrible had happened here.
The instantaneous assumption (it being war time) was that these were the remains of Japanese soldiers who had died of exposure while sneaking through India. The British government, anxious of a Japanese land invasion, sent a team of investigators to determine if this was true. However upon examination they realized these bones were not from Japanese soldiers—they weren't fresh enough.
It was evident that the bones were quite old indeed. Low temperature, rarified and clean air helped to preserve the bodies of deceased better than it would happen elsewhere. Flesh, hair, and the bones themselves had been preserved by the dry, cold air, but no one could properly determine exactly when they were from. More than that, they had no idea what had killed over 200 people in this small valley. Many theories were put forth including an epidemic, landslide, and ritual suicide. For decades, no one was able to shed light on the mystery of Skeleton Lake.

Skeleton in RoopKund

Through carbon dating tests, it has been experimentally estimated that these skeletons belong to anytime between 12th and 15th century. It is primarily believed that the deaths were caused by some kind of natural disaster like a blizzard, landslide or any bacterial disease. However, this topic still remains controversial among the residents, anthropologists and paleontologists of modern times.



More recently in 2004, a team of European and Indian scientists sent by The National Geographic Channel visited Roopkund to carry on with the probe. Their research has unearthed interesting hints and information. Part of their findings includes anthropological treasures like well-preserved corpses, jewelry, bones and skulls belonging to the dead. Further analysis shows that there were rather diverse people. DNA analysis hints at specific mutations observed in people living in Maharashtra (at Roopkund were found family members of Kokanastha Bramins) as well as few local people. There were found children, women. Analysis shows that these people for weeks were walking without proper food.
All the bodies had died in a similar way, from blows to the head. However, the short deep cracks in the skulls appeared to be the result not of weapons, but rather of something rounded. The bodies also only had wounds on their heads, and shoulders as if the blows had all come from directly above. What had killed them all, porter and pilgrim alike?

Skulls in Roopkund

Local legends have the following explanation
A king of Kannauj (ancient land south from Gharval Himalaya) Jasdhawal was on an important pilgrimage to praise the Goddess Nanda Devi. Somehow he disregarded advice of religious counsellors and behaved in an arrogant way.
King took all his entourage with him including numerous dancer girls, musicians, servants. Also his pregnant wife was with him. As they reached Roopkund lake, queen delivered a child in a cave near the lake (Wondermondo: interesting - could it serve as a shelter for few people during the hailstorm?). Goddess Nanda Devi disliked the fact that dancers and musicians entered her sacred land - local customs strictly forbade it. But the worst violation was childbirth on sacred land: according to local customs newborn and their mothers are considered to be unclean for certain period of time. Thus Goddess sent a terrible storm on poor piligrims and they all were killed on spot. 
This legend is well known in Himalaya and there is even traditional song mentioning this event - this song mentions exactly hailstones "hard as iron" raining on the heads of sinners.

Piligrims in Roopkund

The complete mystery is still to be unfolded. The questions related to the origin and cause of death needs more satisfying answers. Geographical location of Roopkund and adverse climatic conditions also making it difficult for research scholars to go for the search of truth. Whatever may be the case the conclusion remains undrawn and this lake is not ready to demystify its existence. But nobody knows when and how we can explore something known out of the unknown. Therefore, a trip to this alluring Roopkund lake is a must.

How to Reach Roopkund 
There are different routes for a trek to Roopkund. However, most of the trekkers and adventure travelers travel to Lohajung or Wan by road. From there they reach Ran ki dhar by climbing a hillock at Wan. So, the way is Kathgodam - Ranikhet - Garur- Gwaldam - Debal (1220 m) - Bagrigad (1890 m) - Mundoli village - Lohajung pass - Wan village (2590 m) - Bedni Bugyal (3660 m) - Baghubasa - Kalu Vinayak - Roopkund

Andaman Island's Rajan: Ocean-Swimming Elephant

Sometime things are so unimaginable that till the time you don’t see them from your eyes, you don’t believe them. Such case happened with me last year, when I heard about Rajan from my parents who are staying in Andaman Islands. Dad told me that Rajan is the only elephant left in entire Indian sub-continent who swims in the sea. I was surprised that how come an elephant can swim. Dad told me to visit Havelock Islands and see it from your own eyes. Without wasting any time, I booked the cruise for coming weekend from Port blair to Havlock. Havlock Island has its own charm but I was more interested in Rajan.  As Dad said, I went to the Barefoot – Havelock Resort to meet this unusual elephant. 

Rajan - The Swimming Elephant

What I saw was totally outside of the norm. An elephant, swimming, snorkelling! Rajan, the permanent elephant resident of Barefoot at Havelock Resort, knows the water well. At 59 years of age a simple morning or afternoon ritual is a plunge in to the waves along the beach. Using his trunk as a snorkel, he finds his way along the seabed to deeper water, enjoying every moment floating.

Rajan Playing in Ocean

Rajan mahout' or elephant driver told me his tragic story:
Unlike a lot of logging elephants at the time, Rajan was born in captivity in mainland India around 1950. Initially trained using very cruel methods to log the islands of the Andamans, he was forced to swim with massive loads. He was trained on the mainland and bought by a Karen Businessman to work in the Timber Industry in the Andaman Islands. He arrived in the Andaman’s in his twenties & worked in Little Andaman, until about 2002.
But in 2002, logging was banned in the islands and most of the 200 elephants were sent back to the Indian mainland. However, Rajan was kept on by a wealthy owner who had no desire to see him leave Havelock Island, and enjoyed a blissful existence eating bananas and swimming in the crystal clear water.

Rajan with his driver

Rajan- Only Elephant who knows how to swim in Ocean

 
Five years ago a Kerala temple offered £40,000 for the elephant and Rajan almost had to leave, before a tourist lodge launched a campaign to raise the funds to keep him. Since then Rajan and Nasru have become something of an attraction. At 60 years he is the last of the group to survive. Now retired, he spends his time with his caretaker and now enjoys swimming and walking through the forests he once logged. He is truly the last of his kind.
 
People at Barefoot Resorts have taken it upon themselves to raise the money required to free Rajan. This amounts to nearly 70 000 USD. It is a mountainous sum of money, and in order to collect it they  undertook merchandising methods, selling Rajan T-shirts, or even offering people the once in a blue moon, exquisite opportunity to swim or dive with an elephant, with Rajan.
 

Rajan Playing in Ocean

When swimming with Rajan you are almost certain he is aware he is being photographed. Rajan is very friendly elephant. He is like a dog paddling when he swims and his mahout swims alongside him and never loses track of him. They are almost inseparable. It was a magical moment to observe – this majestic beast paddling effortlessly through the water.
 

Rajan in Havlock Island Beach

Rajan at 61 has only few more years to enjoy his life

I was fortunate that I had this chance to do a few dives with him and it is for sure an amazing experience. Very often, when people ask me what is the biggest creature that I have seen underwater, I say – Rajan!

How to Reach Havlock Island:

1. Ferries are the major way on or off the island. 2-3 arrive daily from Port Blair (2-4 hours) and one from Rangat, one of which comes via Neil Island. Schedules vary according to day and season, so enquiry locally.
2. There is also an air-conditioned catamaran ferry from Port Blair to Havelock. Tickets are 700, 800 or 1100 (which gets you a leather seat and your own tv). As the ferry is more expensive it is less likely to be full, and its schedule meets incoming flights. Tickets can be booked from a dedicated ticket booking window at Port Blair, thus avoiding the queue barging.
3. The other option is to fly in. Pawan Hans (+91-3192-233601), which until 2011 operated sporadic helicopter flights to Havelock, now flies an amphibious 8-seater Cessna seaplane from Port Blair to Havelock and back every day except Sunday, covering the distance in about an hour. The standard price is a steep 4100 rupees one-way, but discounts may be available.

Janjira Fort: Unconquered Emerald of Arabian sea

Last year in Dusshera holidays, we planned to go to Goa for a week. While going to Goa, we have planned to meet our relatives in Mumbai. Since it was my first visit to Maharashtra, I was discussing with my colleagues which places to visit. One of my friend suggested Janjirra Fort. When I heard the name, I thought she is saying Jal Jeera which sounded quite strange to me. I browsed through the Google, and found the suggestions real true and the place looked quite interesting to me. So I added it in my list of sights. 

We started at about 9 am from Navi Mumbai in a hired cab and reached Kashid beach at about 11:30 am.  The white sand beach was so enchanting that we couldn’t control and run towards it! We captured few snapshots quickly then we proceeded towards Murud-Janjira, which is at about 40mins distance from Kashid. We reached the 'Rajpuri Jetty' from where we travelled to Janjira fort by boat. I saw the glimpse of Janjira fort from shore . The fort is impressive to say the least and is quite unlike something I had ever seen before. It’s huge and right in the middle of the bay surrounded by water at all sides. The 2nd heaviest cannon in India is here. Definitely worth a look.

The local says the fort is immortal due to due to its complex design and astrological calculations about the auspicious moment when the fort could be constructed. I was quite interested about fort history so we took a guide. He told us that Janjira fort, built in the mid-15th century, was originally a wooden fortress built by the Murud fishermen to protect  their village from pirates. Janjira fort  name was originated from Arabic word Jazeera which means island Some of the people also split the name as “Jal Jeera” meaning fort in the water also known as ‘Fort Mehroob’. Shivaji, Sambhaji and the Peshwas tried, in turn, to take over the fort, but the Marathas, British or Portuguese could never capture Janjira. This fort is also termed as the unconquerable fortress of India. The fort remained virtually invincible in its lifespan.

As I entered the fort, I notice a room like structure on the right side of the main entrance called ‘Peer Panchayatan’ which houses a few graves in the front yard. Walk down further along the coastline and came across a stable from where you can see the three storied palace, the tallest structure inside the fort. The western side of the fort features a small door which was used as an emergency exit in the early years.

The whole trip at a leisurely pace would set us backed by about 3 hours or so but the experience to visit the unbeatable legacy of fort was quite thrilling.

Kalaripayattu- An Eternal Indian Martial Arts

Kalaripayattu literally means “training ground-exercise” and the term “Kalari” can be used both to describe the practice, as well as the room in which it is practiced. Kalarippayattu is the only form of the most ancient traditional systems of physical, culture, self-defence and martial techniques still in existence. Among the many exciting experiences that Kerala has to offer, none is more unique than kalaripayattu.  Kalari payat includes strikes, kicks, grappling, preset forms, weaponry and healing methods.  It combines the dynamic skills of attack / defence and the power of the secret knowledge of the body, with a scientific system of healing and therapy based on allied disciplines like Ayurveda.

Kalaripayattu prefomed by two people

Kalaripayattu is possibly the most historic martial art in the globe. The practice of Kalaripayattu is said to originate from the Dhanur Vedic texts encompassing all fighting arts and described by the Vishnu Purana as one of the eighteen traditional branches of knowledge. The origin of Kalaripayattu is nonetheless in the midst of obscurity. Classic Kalari masters attribute mythological stories and legends to the origin of the art. Historically, the art can be traced to the Middle Ages, or ca. the 11th to 12th century, more specifically to the account by historian Elamkulam Kunjan Pillai who attribtues the birth of kalari payat to an extended period of warfare between the Tamil Kingdoms Cheras and the Cholas in the 11th century AD. Kalaris are the schools where training in this martial art form is imparted by Gurukals or masters

Group of people practicing Kalaripayattu

Kalaris were primarily of two types, the first being smaller known as ‘CheruKalari’ (cheru means small) or KuzhiKalari (kuzhi means the portions formed by caving in the earth) and the second one known as ‘AnkaKalari’ (Ankam means fight). It is called KuzhiKalari because the floor of the Kalari is built at a level lower than the surrounding land by removing soil to achieve the necessary depth. CheruKalari or KuzhiKalari was built for the purpose of impailing physical and weapon training. It was in this Kalari that systematic training in scientific exercises in Kalarippayattu was imparted. Remnants of such ancient ‘Kalaris’ are seen at some places in Kerala even now and the similarity in size and shape they bear to each other is ample proof for the existence of this type of Kalaris throughout the region from very ancient days

 Kalaripayattu has clearly affected the evolution of a number of of Kerala’s theatre and dance kinds, most prominently Kathakali and Theyyam. Kathakali practitioners are required to prepare below Kalari masters to create several attributes this sort of as fitness, stamina, and martial movements enacted in their performances. Kalari practitioners claim that Bodhi Dharma, a Buddhist monk who was accountable for training the Shaolin monks in kung-fu, was in fact a Kalari master.

In many places in Kerala, especially North Kerala, kalaripayattu is going through a vigorous revival. Now learned for its traditional values and fitness quotient, and more as a performing art than a fighting technique, the art form is gaining popularity all over Kerala. It is a stimulating, thrilling and aesthetic experience for the senses- a heady mix of supple movements and brisk action- guaranteed to leave the viewer enthralled. In a Phoenix-like resurrection, Kalaripayattu is today emerging in a new avatar – an ancient art form – a source of inspiration for self-expression in dance forms – both traditional and contemporary, in theatre, in fitness and in movies too.

Chilkur Balaji: God with VISA Power

ndia is the incredible land of amazing cultural integration. Here people are fast progressing but still rooted to its faith in god.  While people in different parts of the world like mountaineering and rock climbing just to conquer a hill, in India people of all age set such targets in the name of God and faith. People of all age continue walking and climbing almost all round the year, be it the 22kms rocky roads of Vaishno Devi Mata Temple ,  the snow covered Amarnath Temple requiring intensive rock climbing or waiting in queue for several hours just to get a few second glimpse of Tirupathi balaji.
Recently, I heard one such amazing story of faith about Chilkur Balaji temple. Chilkur Balaji is also  known as VISA God. Surprised?? Even, I was surprised when I heard from my friend that Chilkur Balaj is said to be very powerful in helping people get VISAs, with specialization in US VISAs. Faith can do wonders for sure.

Chilkur BalaJi

Chilkur Balaji Temple

This unique temple is located on the outskirts of Hyderabad, on the banks of Osman Sagar lake. Balaji temple at Chilkur village on the outskirts of Hyderabad has become famous as the “visa temple” and is attracting youngsters with an urge to fly to greener pastures abroad. The temple in chilukur is definitely an epicenter of lot of spiritual energy.
According to the temple history , almost all IT professionals visiting the temple had got an onsite opportunity within a year of visting the temple .The faith here is that if a person makes 11 rounds of the entire temple and prays with some wish in mind then that wish comes true . After the 11 rounds , he / she is fit to worship God and incase if the wish comes true , one should make 108 rounds of the entire temple.
At first, 108 rounds sounded absolutely crazy to me. The funny and weird thing is that such a faith is just passed on by word of mouth . Not even a single scripture says that this is the real story and still one can find people making 108 rounds in huge groups like a massive marathon. Who doesn’t have dreams and unfulfilled desires ? On an average, 8000-10,000 students visit the temple in the hope of securing the elusive but highly sought-after US visa. The temple draws 100,000 visitors a week, many of whom come to pray to Lord Balaji for visas to travel or move to the U.S. and other Western countries. When all logic fails, most people turn to the god to seek divine intervention. The whole process of granting American visas defies any logic.

Devotees Making Round of the Temples

Visa God popularity also amused Wall Street Journal. Wall Street Journal has written a full article on this temple. You can read it here.

History: Once a old man wanted to visit Tirupathi.But due to his old age he was unable to travel and visit. One night lord venkateshwara swamy came into his dream and asked him to dig at a particular place at chilkur.The man got the place dug when all of a sudden they heard a cry when the digging rod stuck a stone like structure. The removed it to find that it was an idol of Lord Venkateshwara swamy with his forehead bleeding. Then the temple of Balaji was constructed at this place.

People in Queue

People from all set of corners of society make rounds in hope of getting their wishes fulfilled. There were physicaly challenged people walking on one stick, Ladies with tiny toddlers walking around the temple, medically unfit people who want to get cured by these rounds . Somewhere Faith and Belief can drive a person to do the impossible.

This is one of the very few temples in India which does not accept monetary donations in a Hundi and therefore does not fall under the purview of endowments department of Government. Chilkut balaji temple circulates a monthly magazine “Vak” which means Speech (Of GOD), nominally priced at Rs 5.00 only.

Vak Magazine published by Temple

I feel very proud that our nation has such a rich heritage where good beliefs and faiths are passed on from generation to another with or without scriptures . Even if the rounds did no fulfilment of dreams , atleast it kindled into many a feeling that they can do what they want to do .